Miyajima and Kintaikyo

After sleeping in a bit later than usual, I made my departure from Hiroshima at the lazy time of 11am. After a brief stop for lunch I visited Miyajima and saw the big gate before heading on to Iwakuni.

BREAKDOWN
Hiroshima -> Miyajima -> Iwakuni
94km

Miyajima's big gate was much smaller than I expected. Although It is a world heritage listed site, it wasn't as impressive as I expected. One cool feature of Miyajima was the deer that roam the streets. These deer are completely at home with humans and didn't seem to mind me coming up and taking a photo at all.

After, leaving Miyajima, I got in a few Km to reach Iwakuni. At Iwakuni, I visited and crossed the bridge at Kintaikyo. This multi-span wooden bridge showcases the beauty of traditional Japanese architecture. Perhaps not ideally, I found Kintaikyo to be more impressive than Miyajima.

Anyway, today I have a full day of riding ahead. I have 155km or so before I reach Kyushu. I wonder if I can make it tonight.

T.G.I. Friday

Friday wasn't a big day for riding. In the morning, I went to Dogo Onsen. The baths were very simple but extremely comfortable. I could easily have spent half a day just soaking but I had to move on.

I rode around Matsuyama city for a while before heading for Matsuyama port and the ferry to Hiroshima. About 5 mins before I boarded the ferry a huge earthquake struck the Northeastern region of Japan. With a magnitude of 8.8 this earthquake it the largest in Japanese history. In fact, there was no place on the 4 main islands of Japan that didn't feel some shaking. As I left the terminal tsunami warnings flooded television screens around the country. After considering that I was on the relatively protected Seto inland sea, I boarded the ferry with a slightly uneasy feeling. While on the ferry, I along with the other passengers watched with terror as the disaster unfolded on the television.

That night I went out to an Irish pub in Hiroshima called Molly Malone's. It was an awesome pub with a very warm and welcoming atmosphere. I had a few beers together with some Brits as we watched England lose the cricket to Bangladesh.

Shimanami Kaido

Yesterday I completed my trek along the Shimanami Kaido.

BREAKDOWN
Ikuchijima (Setoda) -> Imabari
46.6km

The views along the rest of the road were fantastic. Unfortunately I was impeded by continuing strong headwinds. Next time I ride this course I will be sure to check the wind direction first. The waters of the Seto inland sea are like a pool of emeralds surrounding each of the islands. One beach (Sunset Beach) had bright white sands making a lush vista as I rode by. The sea was inviting and had it been a bit warmer I would surely have stopped for a swim. Maybe next time...

Perhaps the funniest thing I saw was on one of the last islands I had to cross. There, the main industry appears to be granite quarrying. The whole area is granite crazy. Even the tourism signboards were made of granite. Up in the mountains, away from any water, I happened across a giant stone fish. Not a stonefish mind you but a "stone" fish.

After facing 75km of headwinds the Shimanami Kaido redeemed itself with glorious splendour as I reached the final bridge. A multi-span suspension bridge it is the longest bridge in the world. The bridge took me a full 30 minutes to cross. With the superb scenery of the islands in the inland sea and the magnificent bridge above, I found myself feeling quite small but with an element of pride as though I was walking alongside the giants of this world.

On arrival at Imabari, I decided to take a train to Matsuyama where I spent the night. I was planning to go to Dogo Onsen last night but was too tyred at the end of the day so I had some dinner, did my washing and went to bed.

Today I will go to Dogo onsen before taking a ferry to Hiroshima city. I will probably stay in Hiroshima city tonight or I might try cycling further South again. It all depends on whichever way the wind blows.

Kosanji Temple

This morning I visited Kosanji temple. I'm not a huge temple fan but when I read about this place it made my "must visit" list. Unlike other famous temples in Japan, this temple cannot boast a long history as it is less than a century old. It was built by a successful businessman who dedicated it to his mother.

For me, there are a few features of this temple that make it stand out. First, the temple contains several replicas of famous structures you'll find in other temples across Japan. One I recognized was the Phoenix Hall from Byodoin. Second, this temple has a cave and caves are cool! This cave apparently has 1000 Buddha statues in it - give or take a few. Finally, the temple has a huge garden at its summit that is made purely of marble imported from Italy - over 3000 tonnes.

I see this temple as symbolic of a traditional Japan that is outwards looking. A Japan that can embrace the outside world and accept its place in it.

I also heard a story today of the temple's construction. Apparently, when the marble was being imported, there was an earthquake in Kobe and the marble laden ship couldn't dock. So it went back to Italy and made a second trip later.

And some people say the temple has no history...

The Thin Blue Line

After getting on the bike at Fukuyama I rode to Onomichi and started along the Shimanami Kaido.

BREAKDOWN
Fukuyama -> Onomichi -> Mukoujima -> Innoshima -> Ikuchijima (Setoda)
Distance: 55.0km

At first, I was worried that when I reached Onomichi, I wouldn't be able to find the Shimanami Kaido. Not being sure of where to go, I inquired with a local taxi driver as to which way I should go. He told me to "Follow the thin blue line". Apparently, the blue line continues all the way to Imabari. What a fantastic idea! Now I can enjoy the ride without worrying about maps and navigation so long as I follow the thin blue line.

At first the blue line led me through a quaint little town before emerging along a picturesque coastline. I never expected to behold such a magnificent view so soon. The islands rose out of the crystal clear waters with lazy mountains looking across the channels at each other. One small island even had a peephole.

The islands of Mukojima and Innoshima shoulder an enormous bridge between them. As the first bridge I have to cross the views sure leave an impression. The climb to the bridges is easy and the view from the top, breathtaking. As I was crossing the wind lashed me with a fury I have never known.

I finally crossed a second bridge onto Ikuchijima and cycled to the city of Setoda where I stayed for the night. Today, I will visit Kosanji Temple and continue down towards Imabari and Matsuyama. I would like to reach Matsuyama before dark tonight but with all there is to see here, I don't like my chances.

On the road again

Well, it has been a long time but finally I'm on my way again. This time I'm starting from Fukuyama and cycling along the Shimanami Kaido. Tonight I plan to stay on one of the islands of the Seto inland sea between Honshu and Shikoku. My March adventure has finally begun!!